So far my group and I have completely made our pin hole camera from a Quaker oatmeal 'can'. For pictures on the process, check out . Also, once our experimental pictures using this camera are developed, then we will post them on our blogs. Hopefully, they will all have developed over the weekend and are actually visible, because, some of our experiments with exposure time should produce some cool frames.
Here is our process in making our camera:
Materials:*Can or box to use as dark box {we used Quaker oatmeal can}
*Someway to make this light-tight, include black construction paper, black (spray) paint, and tin foil.
*A place that is void of white light to transfer photopaper to and from the camera {and develope the film later}. So that you aren't operating total darkness, you can use a red light that won't tamper with the paper.
*Photopaper
*Appropriate chemicals to expose the pictures
*Some kind of shutter to let light in for allotted amount of time. Can be a cardboard flap, as long as it can be made light-tight.
*Subject to capture on film. Generally still objects when experimenting with lighting and exposure times. As you progress in exposure times and all that, experiment with moving the subject around,
First of all, this whole assignment about making a pin hole camera in
digital studios was to help the class when looking at more complicated cameras. Basically, every camera is just a more complicated version of a shutter, a pin hole for letting light in, a light-tight box, and a image capturing device {ranging from photo paper to digital intake}.

Note:
When light enters the dark box, the image on the outside of the hole reverses or mirrors on two lines: the horizontal, and the vertical. This means that whatever you take a picture of, it will be recorded onto the photopaper backwards and upside down, so any words will be backwards.
{
www.water.hu/ice/webcam/Pinhole-camera.png}To reproduce this simple design, my group and I used a Quaker oatmeal 'can' to act as the box. To make it light-tight, we spray painted the inside and the lid of the can with black paint. Using a pin, we punctured the bottom of the can to be used as the pin hole to let light in. We used the bottom for the hole, because the lid of the can will be where the photopaper will be held to 'absorb' light. Tin foil and duct tape was used to further light-tight the can.
Spray paint the inside black so no reflections 'dance around' in the box when taking a picture:

Here's our group's pinhole {with shutter held open}:

After creating this behemoth of a camera, we transfered photopaper into the lid using a Dark Bag {light-tight bag with zippers and arm folds to keep light out}. Taking it outside, we found a subject to try and capture and opened the shutter for the allotted times. Because we were trying to figure out the exposure time, we tested using 8 min, 6 min, and 2 min exposures. Now, we wait over the weekend until Mr. Hiller can process the paper. Also, when you are recreating this, keep the camera
very still.
* * * * * * * * * * * * *
{9/17}
Apparently over the weekend, Mr. Hiller stayed up until 3 am working on the exposures and testing the camera designs. There is a design "flaw" in our Quaker camera: The light coming through the pinhole wasn't reaching the paper. This could be from the length of the Quaker can, because it's really long comparative to the other cameras in the class. My group will have to redesign the structure so that the light coming through the pinhole will actually land on the photopaper and develope into pictures. We'll probably have to move the position of the paper forward. That, we'll debate on how we'll accomplish this in our group. Later...
{9/19}
For those of you who are going to be building a pin hole camera in the near future and are reading this, make sure you build it appropriately. That is, make sure that the light from the hole actually lands on the photopaper; don't make the box too long(!)
{9/24}
Last Friday my group met and talked about the change in design. Apparently, we are going to cut a hole in the side and then load the paper on the opposite side, so that light can actually reach the paper without having to be exposed for 30min+.